Use Silk Flowers - with Embroidery

How to use Embroidered Silk Flowers with Embroidery by Evy Hawkins at A Bit of Stitch Vest Instructions using Silk Flowers Front View Full Vest Opened Out Back View Materials Used: Vest Pattern of your choice Fabric and notions for the vest according to the pattern chosen Large Bunch of polysilk artificial flowers Temporary Spray Adhesive Bridal Tulle (Iridescent white works well with most fabrics) Embroidery Thread Embroidery designs of your choice Designs used: Garden Bugs and Red Hat Ladies from A Bit of Stitch Directions: Begin by removing the polysilk artificial flowers and leaves from their stems. Pull apart each flower, removing any plastic parts. Discard stems and plastic parts. Be sure to double check behind the leaves, if there is a plastic part attached, gently peel it off. Spread a press cloth over your ironing board. Spray each flower petal and leaf with water, place on the press cloth and cover them with another press cloth. Iron the flowers and leaves flat using the highest steam setting the flowers will withstand. This is usually the cotton setting, but check first! You may choose not to use the top press cloth, but be very sure you have removed all plastic parts from the flowers. If your flowers resist flattening, place them under some heavy books overnight. Cut out your vest, serging or stay stitching all raw edges to stabilize them. Cut corresponding pieces of bridal tulle for all the vest pieces you will be applying the flowers to. It is helpful to cut the tulle a little larger than the vest pieces. Lay your vest pieces, right side up on a flat surface. Arrange the pressed flower parts on the vest. Feel free to trim the flower parts and leaves to better accommodate your design. When you are happy with the arrangement, spray the matching tulle vest piece with temporary spray adhesive and carefully place over the flower decorated vest fabric. Be careful with glue overspray...spread newspapers on the floor or use a large cardboard box to do your spraying in. You may need to place a few straight pins here and there to further secure the tulle and flowers to the vest fabric. Using regular sewing thread in your bobbin to match the vest fabric and your choice of decorative embroidery thread in the top, freehand stitch the tulle to the vest fabric on your sewing machine using a normal stitch length. You can use a lazy meandering pattern, or crisscross the fabric in a grid. Just be sure that you stitch through all the flowers and leaves enough to prevent them from shifting. The silk flowers need to be covered by the tulle, but you may choose not to cover your whole vest with tulle. Only the floral portion of the bug vest shown is covered with tulle. If you wish to do this, decide where you want the tulle to stop, straight stitch along this line, trim the excess tulle away and zigzag stitch the new tulle edge. Use a very narrow zigzag in a normal stitch length. You do not need to zigzag the edges of the tulle when they will be enclosed in your seam allowances. Stay stitch again around the edges of the vest where the tulle has been applied. Trim the edges of the tulle flush with the edges of the vest fabric. Embroider the vest with your choice of embroidery designs at this time. Using a size 90/14 embroidery needle is recommended. Bugs, butterflies and other pretty winged creatures are wonderful choices for embroidery on silk flowers. Finish the vest according to your pattern instructions. Polysilk flowers are washable in cold or warm water, and can be machine dried on low heat. When ironing your finished vest, be sure to use a press cloth, or iron from the wrong side. The polysilk flowers will withstand the heat of your iron, but the bridal tulle will not. Variations and Other Projects: Polysilk flowers can also be enclosed between two layers of sheer fabric such as organza. Make a sheer vest from silk organza. Then finish it by embroidering with the outline stitch of the Garden Bugs dragonfly design in an iridescent thread. Another fun use for this technique is shown on the handbag. Here the flowers have been placed to form a frame for the fashion lady embroidery design. This bag features an Applique Red Hat Lady design from A Bit of Stitch. These directions may not be reproduced, copied or distributed without prior permission from Evy Hawkins at A Bit of Stitch. Thank you.

Create a Puzzle Bag

How to make a Valentine Puzzle Bag
by Shelly Smola at My Fair Lady

You will need: February Valentines Puzzle design from My Fair Lady (Any of the puzzles will work!) 2 - 7"h x 9"h pieces of lining fabric for a bag from the 5x7 puzzle pages (6"h x 6"h pieces if you are making a bag from the 4x4 set) Size 80/12 universal sewing needle Thread Bobbin thread Purse handle - this can be ribbon, a string of beads, a ready made handle, etc. Shelly used a shoulder strap found in the bridal section of a fabric store. 1/3 yd trim for top or bottom of bag (optional)

Instructions:
Embroider the February Puzzle pages following the instructions included in the set.

Cut 2 pieces of lining fabric. Measurements: 4x4 set - the lining pieces should measure 6"h x 6"h 5x7 set - the lining pieces should measure 7"h x 9"h

Place one piece of lining and Page 1 right sides together. If you want trim around the top of the bag, place it along the top as shown. Stitch the lining to Page 1 across the top. All seam allowances are .?h.

Open Page 1 and the lining, and press the seam allowance toward the lining. Stitch the seam allowance to the lining as shown.

Repeat with Page 2 and the second piece of lining.

Place the front and back of the bag right sides together. If you want trim along the bottom (beads, tassels, pom poms, etc), place it between the pages along the bottom toward the inside.

Stitch around the edges, leaving an opening in the bottom of the liner.

Turn the bag right side out. Stitch the bottom of the lining closed.

Tuck the lining into the bag. Hand-sew the beaded handles to the bag (if desired).

These directions may not be reproduced, copied or distributed without prior permission from Shelly Smola at My Fair Lady . Thank you. For a printable version of these instructions click here.

Embroider Cutwork

by Shelly Smola of My Fair Lady Supply List: Wash-away mesh stabilizer Small embroidery nips 505 or Sulky KK2000 Adhesive Spray Seam ripper Fray Check Cutwork Instructions The following instructions demonstrate the method for embroidering a cutwork design from My Fair Lady. Other designers may use a different method. Please read all instructions before stitching any cutwork designs. Step 1 Spray the back of your fabric with adhesive spray. Place it over the wash-away stabilizer. You MUST adhere the fabric to the stabilizer to insure a clean stitchout. This will keep your fabric from shifting when you cut out the cutwork area. Always spray your fabric far away from your machine. Step 2 Hoop the fabric and stabilizer together. Step 3 To stitch a nice, “clean” design, pull the bobbin thread to the top before you start stitching each sequence. This will prevent the tail of the bobbin thread from getting caught under the stitching in the cutwork area, which is very difficult to cut away and leaves your design looking messy. To do this, lower your needle and bring it back up. Use the top thread to pull the bobbin thread up through the fabric. Tip: Hold your hoop by the hoop!! It’s easy to push your fingers through the fabric if you hold the hoop as shown. This is a common mistake, and your fingers will displace the fabric. This will lead to an unattractive and imperfect stitchout. Step 4 Sew the first sequence. Trim any jump stitches or thread tails on the top and bottom of the hoop. Step 5 Sew the second sequence. This is the cutting line for the cutwork area. Use the same thread that you will use for the cutwork finish. The outer line will help keep your fabric in place. Step 6 Take the hoop out of the machine. Use the point of your scissors or a seam ripper to start a small hole inside the cutwork area. Use a pair of sharp embroidery nips to cut out the fabric only inside the stitched guideline. DO NOT CUT THE STABILIZER! This needs to stay in place to hold your fabric in position! Trim the fabric close to the stitch line, but do not cut the stitches. Tip: Make sure that your hoop is sitting on a flat surface while you trim the fabric. Be careful not to loosen the fabric inside the hoop. Step 7 Place the hoop back in the machine. Sew the finish for the cutwork area. While your embroidery machine stitches the connecting bars and underlay, watch for any “whiskers.” If you see any (this will depend on your fabric), stop your embroidery machine and trim them before the satin finish is sewn so that you will have a nice, clean stitchout. Step 8 Sew the last sequence - the Swiss dots. Step 9 Take your project out of the hoop. Apply a dot of Fray Check to the back of each of the Swiss dots. After the Fray Check is dry, rinse with warm water until it feels like the stabilizer is completely gone. Soak the item in a container of soapy water for a little while to make sure that ALL of the stabilizer is dissolved. Rinse your item again thoroughly, and hang to dry. Tip: If you accidentally cut part of the stabilizer, “float” a small piece of stabilizer under the cut. To do this, cut a small piece of stabilizer slightly larger than the cutout area, and use spray adhesive to hold it to the bottom of your hoop. If you accidentally cut all of the stabilizer, float a small piece of stabilizer under the cutwork area, and sew the cutting line again (go back one thread color on your machine) to hold it in place before going on to the next thread sequence). Color Chart at a Glance Heirloom Cutwork Freebie Color 1 Dark Blue – Vines and Leaves Color 2 Cutting Line for the diamond – Stop and trim the fabric inside the line. Color 3 Light Blue - Cutwork Finish Color 4 Dark Blue – Swiss dot accents Washing and Ironing Treat your cutwork item as you would any other delicate heirloom. Wash the cutwork item by hand. Use a detergent that will not harm your fabric. If your fabric is linen, remember to use a gentle detergent that does not contain chlorine bleach, as this will break down the fibers and ruin the linen. Hang the item and allow it to dry naturally. Before your project has dried completely, iron it at a setting appropriate for your fabric. Remember to iron from the back or use a pressing cloth so that the embroidery does not get flattened Resources Stabilizer: www.allstitch.net (Vilene) Adhesive Spray: www.allstitch.net (505 adhesive spray or Sulky KK2000). Please do not use Dritz adhesive spray for this project, as it does not wash out. Embroidery Nips: www.toolsandgadgets.net Copyright Information Sharing is Stealing! All digitized designs and instructions are copyrighted by My Fair Lady and are only for use by the person who originally purchased the designs. Digitized designs and instructions are not to be shared, swapped, duplicated or sold in any way. Designs in their stitched out form can be used on personal items, gifts and items for resale on a small scale. The digitized design itself remains the property of My Fair Lady. Please help My Fair Lady continue to offer quality designs at reasonable prices by following copyright laws. Free Design Download Visit My Fair Lady's Heirloom Cutwork Design page to download both Project Instructions and the above freebie design.

Make a Spring Quilt

by Shelly Smola of My Fair Lady

Quilt Instructions Note: All fabric amounts listed refer to 44" wide fabric. All fabric should be pre-shrunk, ironed, and starched for best results. If the fabric you choose will shrink significantly, please buy extra! Quilt Squares Make the following Spring Quilt squares all in the same hoop size. Follow the instructions included in the Spring Quilt in the Hoop set.		Quilt Supplies 80/12 universal sewing needle Fabric for sashing (see charts below for yardage) Fabric for back 4x4 Squares: ( 2/3 yd) 5x5 Squares: ( 2/3 yd) 6x5 Squares: (¾ yd) Fabric for binding (¼ yd) Hand sewing needle
6 Main Quilt Squares (1 of each square) 24 Half Squares (4 of each half square) 24 Corner Squares (4 of each corner square)		Finished Quilt Sizes 4x4 Squares: About 19" x 28" 5x5 Squares: About 23" x 35" 6x6 Squares: About 27" x 40"

Sashing and Binding
The quilt shown has pink sashing (the strips of fabric in between each quilt square) inside the 6 individual blocks, and yellow sashing separating the 6 large blocks. The yardage is given below.

4x4 Squares Pink Sashing: 6 - 1¼" strips (¼ yd) Yellow Sashing: 3 - 1¼" strips (1/8 yd) Binding: 3 - 1¾" strips (¼ yd) 5x5 Squares Pink Sashing: 7 - 1¼" strips (¼ yd) Yellow Sashing: 3 - 1¼" strips (1/8 yd) Binding: 3 - 1¾" strips (¼ yd) 6x6 Hoop Pink Sashing: 8 - 1¼" strips (1/3 yd) Yellow Sashing: 3 - 1¼" strips (1/8 yd) Binding: 4 - 1¾" strips (¼ yd)

Quilt Assembly
The quilt will be assembled in "sets" of 9 pieces at a time. Start with 1 main quilt square and its 4 matching corners and 4 half squares.

1. Take the top left corner square and place it over the pink sashing, right sides together. (The grey image above is the wrong-side of the fabric - the pink is the right-side).	2. Stitch together using the stitched border on the corner square as your seam guide. Stitch JUST INSIDE the line as shown to hide the seam guide.
3. Trim the unused portion of the sashing.	4. Open the sashing and finger press. The seam will naturally open toward the sashing.
5. Place a half square right sides together with the sashing.	6. Stitch together using the stitched border on the half square as your seam guide. Stitch JUST INSIDE the line as shown to hide the seam guide.
7. Open the sashing and finger press.	8. Place the corner and half square right sides together with the unused strip of sashing. Stitch together using the stitched border on the half square as your seam guide. Remember to stitch just inside the seam guide.
9. Trim the unused portion of the sashing. As you complete the block, if the unused sashing isn't long enough, set it aside and use it for smaller sections. Start with a new strip when necessary.	10. Open the sashing and finger press.
	11. Place a corner square right sides together with the sashing. Stitch together using the stitched border on the corner square as your seam guide. Remember to stitch just inside the seam guide.
	12. Lay the row flat and iron. Use a pressing cloth and iron from the front. Do not iron from the back, as the wash-away stabilizer will shrink and distort the blocks.
	13. Sew two half squares and the main square together with sashing and iron open.
	14. Repeat for the last two corners squares and half square.
	15. Sew the 3 rows together with sashing in the same manner. Complete the other 5 blocks following the same steps. Iron each block when finished. Remember to iron from the front with a pressing cloth.
16. Sew the top two large blocks together using the yellow sashing.
17. Sew the middle two large blocks together using the yellow sashing.
18. Sew the bottom two large blocks together using the yellow sashing.

19. Sew the 3 rows together with sashing. 20. Cut the fabric for the back of the quilt slightly larger than your quilt. Lay the quilt top on the quilt back, WRONG sides together and pin. 21. "Stitch in the ditch" along the yellow sashing and around the six main squares to secure the back and protect the batting. TIP: Use a walking foot! 22. Baste the quilt top to the back around the edge. Trim the back to match the quilt.

Binding

1. Sew the binding strips together, and press the seams open.	wrong side
2. Press under ¼" along one short edge. Press under ¼" along one long edge.

3. Beginning a few inches away from a corner on one side, stitch the unfolded side of the binding to the quilt. Stitch just inside the seam line already stitched on the quilt.

4. To miter the corners, stop sewing ¼" from the corner and backstitch.

5. Fold the binding so that it is in line with the edge you will be sewing, then fold it back down so that the raw edges are together again. The fold should line up with the edge of the quilt top. Pin in place.

6. Turn the quilt so that you will be ready to sew the next edge. Begin sewing the next edge ¼" from the top.



7. Continue sewing the binding around quilt, mitering corners as you go.

8. When you reach the starting point, overlap the edges about ½". Tuck the end of the binding under the fold of the starting point.

9. Turn the binding to the back of the quilt and hand-stitch so that the seam line on the back is covered. Hand-stitch the front of the binding where the two ends meet.

Washing
Wash your quilt in warm water to remove the stabilizer. Tumble dry on low heat. Remove the quilt from the dryer while it is slightly damp and lay it flat to dry.

These directions may not be reproduced, copied or distributed without prior permission from Shelly Smola at My Fair Lady . Thank you. For a printable version of these instructions click here.